Start by making your way to Baltimore, where ferries to Oileán Chléire (Cape Clear) depart. The 266 Local Link bus runs eight times a day from Market Street in Skibbereen and drops you right at the harbour, just by the Cape Clear Ferries ticket booth. The ride only takes 17 minutes, but it’s a scenic one, winding over green hills, skimming the edge of Inish Beg and following the River Ilen out to sea. Sit on the right side of the bus for the best views, and as you roll into Baltimore, keep an eye out for the rusting hull of the Atlantic Mariner, which is visible at low tide.  

If you take the 9.14am bus, you’ll have around an hour in Baltimore before the 10.45am ferry to Cape Clear (check seasonal schedules and book ahead if you can). It’s just enough time for a walk out to the Baltimore Beacon, the striking white tower perched above the bay. Follow the blue arrows around the edge of The Cove, then continue up a quiet country road before tackling the final, rocky stretch to the headland. The cliffs here are sheer and dramatic, with waves crashing far below and sea grasses thick along the edge. From the top, there’s a sweeping view across Sherkin Island and out to the Atlantic – bring binoculars and you might even spot whales breaching in the distance. 

Keep an eye on the time as you need to be back at the harbour at least 15 minutes before the ferry departs. It’s worth getting there early anyway, especially if you want to nab one of the prized seats along the top deck rail, which are perfect for spotting marine life. The 45-minute crossing takes you past rocky islets dotted with sleeping seals, seabirds diving for fish and, if luck’s on your side, dolphins and even minke whales cresting through the waves. 

When you arrive at Cape Clear, the ferry pulls into North Harbour, a sweep of turquoise water and a curved white-sand bay where swimmers brave the sea on sunnier days. Depending on the ferry schedule, you’ll have at least four and a half hours to explore. A good place to start is with a kayaking trip run by Cléire Lasmuigh. Times vary with the tide, but once you’re booked in, it’s an easy 10-minute walk over to the meeting point at Inbhéar (South Harbour), climbing up and over a hill that dips into the beautiful bay of Cuas an Uisce. If you’ve got time before or after, stretch your legs on a short section of the Lúb an Ghleanna (Gleann Loop) trail, which runs just above the beach. 

Once you’re kitted out, local guide Paula leads you into the bay. As you paddle along the edge of the inlet, she points out marine curiosities: bright pink sea urchins clinging to the rocks, or strands of thongweed, a spaghetti-like seaweed you can even taste straight from the water. Along the way, she weaves in words and phrases as Gaeilge, from the local name for kelp (lóch) to Inbhéar Bheag, the spot where the calm waters of the cove meet the open Atlantic swell. 

Where to eat on Cape Clear  

The first place you’ll spot when you arrive is Sean Rua’s Seafood Restaurant & Pizzeria, a laid-back spot right on the beach. Grab one of the bright blue picnic tables outside if you can; they come with front-row views of the water. Then head in to order seafood chowder, fresh crab salad or whatever’s been landed that day. Just up the road, Cotter’s is a welcoming pub with a chalkboard outside offering handy Irish phrases to help you order as Gaeilge – after all, “Tá tú sa Ghaeltacht anois!” (you are in the Gaeltacht now) and the staff really want you to use your cúpla focal to “labhair Gaeilge linn” (speak Irish with us). 

In summer, Mary’s Chipper Van parks by the harbour, serving up bags of chips perfect for eating on the sand. Do bring cash – not everywhere on the island accepts cards. 

Cape Clear has five waymarked hiking trails, with a large map posted at North Harbour – snap a photo for reference or scan the QR codes for each route. Which trail to choose depends on how much of a challenge you’re after. 

A good all-rounder is An Cuarlúb – Ring Loop (4.2km, about an 1.5 hour), which begins at the harbour and loops inland along quiet country roads, showing off beautiful scenery and a few solid uphill stretches. For something steeper, try the Lúb an gCnoicini – Little Hills Loop (3.1km, 1.5 to 2 hours), which follows a similar path but includes a sharper climb halfway through. 

The toughest option is the Lúb an Ghleanna – Gleann Loop (5km, 2.5 hours). It’s a demanding hike, but the views from the peak — stretching across the island and out to sea — make the effort more than worth it. 

All of the walks eventually lead back to the harbour, passing Chléire Goats, a farm where you can pick up goat milk ice cream made with locally harvested lavender. Arrive between 10am and midday and you might catch the goats being milked. Be warned though: if you head there straight from the harbour, you’ll face a steep uphill climb (it’s much nicer in reverse). 

If hiking’s not your thing, you can still soak up the island’s scenery on an electric bus tour. A local guide will take you to the best lookout points – just ask at the harbour when you arrive. Before you leave, pop into the Cape Clear Heritage Centre (open June to September), where you’ll find exhibits on island life and the iconic Fastnet Rock Lighthouse. 

You can also include a visit to the Fastnet on your day trip, with a tour from Baltimore that includes two to three hours on Cape Clear (available from late April to October, and must be booked in advance). After a bit of time for a walk and lunch on the island, the boat circles the dramatic base of Fastnet before returning to Baltimore, with plenty of time to catch the 266 bus back to Skibbereen. 

Where to eat in Baltimore 

When you’re back in Baltimore, there are several excellent restaurants to choose from, and the last bus to Skibbereen is at 8.15pm, giving you plenty of time for dinner. For a real treat, book into the two-Michelin star Dede, for a tasting menu using the best local, seasonal ingredients cooked with a dash of Turkish influence – a combination that won them Best Restaurant in Ireland at the Irish Restaurants Awards 2025. If you can’t snag a reservation, head around the corner to its relaxed sister spot Baba’de.  

Photo credit: @ayla_hunt_

Open all day at weekends, it offers brunch and lunch followed by an evening menu featuring dishes like Turkish-style squid, local blue lobster with lime leaf and mussel sauce, and their signature kebab with lavash bread and buffalo yoghurt. 

Overlooking the harbour, Bushe’s Bar is a salty old sea dog of a pub, with a cosy, nautically themed interior and outdoor seats where you can eat open crab sandwiches while looking at the water.