Start your day at the Skibbereen Heritage Centre, a small riverside museum exploring the Great Famine from a local perspective – the first official famine death was recorded here. Exhibits include personal audio features, short films and an introduction by nearby resident Jeremy Irons.  

Among the rare artefacts are a letter from Nicholas Cummins to the Duke of Wellington and a writing slope used by Dr Daniel Donovan, who treated hundreds of famine victims. You can also download the Famine Story app, which guides you around key local sites. 

The second part of the centre focuses on nearby Lough Hyne, a saltwater lake known for its rich biodiversity. Inside, you’ll find displays on local wildlife, while the riverside terrace offers a photographic guide to the birds and animals of Skibbereen. If you return at dawn or dusk, you might spot the resident otters playing along the riverbank. 

Afterwards, wander down Bridge Street to check out Skibbereen’s independent shops, many of which still bear the original shopfront lettering on their façades. Antiquity is a two-minute walk from the heritage centre and is a playground for bookworms – there are shelves packed with second-hand titles, and a pretty courtyard at the back where you can take your purchase to read with a coffee and a treat from their in-house vegan café. The nearby Inanna Rare Books is a two-storey shop in the Masonic Hall, with a huge selection – think 100-year-old books on Everest and Beatrix Potter hardbacks from 1903 – complete with the nostalgic scent of old books. 

For homewares, Hunters Gatherers Vintage is a tiny shop packed with brightly coloured glass vases, vintage ceramics and retro posters. There’s a great selection of locally made goods in West Cork Crafts, like knitted animals, wooden earrings and tiny ceramic dishes.  

Photo credit: @hunters.gatherers.vintage

Before lunch, pop into Uillinn West Cork Arts Centre for a mooch around their two galleries. As well as the exhibitions on display, they hold regular events and performances, with a strong focus on dance courtesy of their dancer residencies. There’s a suntrap of a courtyard outside, too.  

Where to eat lunch in Skibbereen  

Kalbos Café is a popular spot on North Street. The to-go section is perfect for a quick bite to takeaway, or a relaxed perch on the high stools by the window, where you can watch the world amble by. If you want to linger, there’s a proper sit-down dining room attached. Much of the produce comes straight from their own farm, and the menu changes with the seasons. Expect hearty specials like Cajun chicken baguettes, Gubbeen ham baps or roasted vegetable and feta mini quiches, alongside a tempting spread of sweet treats like cinnamon buns, carrot cake and rich chocolate brownies. There’s a cosy, old school vibe up the road in An Chistin Beag, with decorative plates on the brick walls, and a menu of dishes like BLTs, halloumi burgers and toasted ciabatta.  

Need a caffeine hit? O’Neill Coffee has a cool, ramshackle vibe with battered countertops, weathered walls and a coffee menu scrawled on a chalkboard. Alongside locally roasted coffee, they sell nibbles like giant cookies, chocolate-covered dates and homemade sausage rolls. Down the road in Brew Coffee, you’ll find small-batch coffee and treats, with seats at window benches underneath hanging baskets and a sign that says “Johnny Cash Only.”   

Photo credit: @oneillcoffee

After a morning in town, it’s time to explore the coast. The 266B Local Link bus (four a day, 20 minutes) goes from Market Street in Skibbereen to the tiny fishing village of Union Hall – take a note of where the bus stops, as they’ll pick you up from the same spot when it’s time to return.  

Tucked around a quiet corner of Glenore Harbour, this photogenic village is a great spot for a stroll. Wander along the water’s edge, where a low stone wall is topped with crushed mussel shells, or stretch your legs on one of the Union Hall Walks – the 2.9km Heritage Walk is a good place to start. Don’t miss Cnoc Bui, a community-run art gallery in a charming old cottage, where contemporary art and photography sit against rough plaster walls and above weathered fireplaces. 

Photo credit: @cnocbuiarts

The best way to see all the local scenery is on the Forks, Focail and Folklore eBike Tour with Gormú. It runs every day at 4pm from Cnoc Bui (the timing works perfectly with the bus schedule, too). The two-hour tour blends scenic stops, Seanchaí-style storytelling and a cúpla focal along the way. It’s led by Conor Ó Buachalla, a lifelong local with plenty of stories to tell.  

Photo credit: @gormu.ar

You’ll cover 20km of stunning countryside, crossing narrow bridges over crystal clear waters, winding through ancient woodlands and following quiet boreens that open up to spectacular views of the West Cork coastline. No need to worry about missing the perfect photo – there are regular stops to take in the views while Conor shares local legends. You’ll hear everything from the tale of Corcán Sheáin de Bhuala to stories of his own ancestors, whose murderous past once stirred a ghostly encounter in the harbour. 

You’ll also pick up a few hyper-local Irish phrases along the way, like mí-ádh for a curse, or Céim na nGár, meaning Hill of the Shouts, marked with a hearty roar as you zip down its steep, scenic slope. And when the route turns uphill, you’ll need a bit of fuiarchúis, a phrase that loosely means ‘steely courage.’ But don’t worry about breaking a sweat – the slick e-bikes take care of the hard work. 

After a quick stop to skim stones at Squince and hear the legend of the maol cow who rose from the lake beside Brigid’s Island, you’ll roll back into Union Hall just in time for the bus to Skibbereen. If you’ve a few minutes to spare, grab a drink at The Dock Wall – their beer garden sits right on the water’s edge, perfect for a last look at the harbour. 

Photo credit: @thedockwall

Where to eat dinner in Skibbereen 

Fancy a side of striking architecture with your dinner? The Church Restaurant is set in a former Methodist church, so you can sit underneath a huge stained-glass window as you tuck into local crab claws, Clonakilty black pudding and poached pear, or fish and chips made with haddock fresh from Union Hall. Book in advance to get the best tables upstairs, right next to the window itself.  

The secret weapon at Wild Ways at Dillon’s Corner is an Italian chef who whips up proper Neapolitan pizzas in the wood-fired oven, complete with an expertly charred crust, super thin base and a delicate scattering of toppings. The restaurant itself is laidback and buzzy, with a curved frontage, candlesticks made from cutlery and a couple of outdoor tables, for when the weather is fine.   

If you don’t mind a bit of a walk, Liss Ard Estate is about a 40-minute stroll from Skibbereen and has two excellent restaurants – the main space is geared towards fine dining, and the more casual lounge is elegant but low key. The adjoining cocktail bar is chic and cosy, with stacks of board games and books, and you can also take a short walk to see the architectural marvel of James Turrell’s Sky Garden.